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Welcome
to the Rodent Control Page Rodent Removal, Elimination, BiologyThis page will launch you to different links concerning the biology of common household rodents, rats, mice. You will also find the description and ordering information of the many rodent control products (humane live traps, rat and mouse snap traps, T-Rex Rat Trap, Rat Zapper 2000, rodent bait stations, rat glue traps, mouse glue boards, rodent baits) used to eliminate these pests in homes, apartments, warehouses, restaurants and other food handling establishments. The three most common rodents sharing our households, restaurants, warehouses, barns and other buildings are the House Mouse, Norway Rat, Roof Rat. [ Chipmunk ]
Mouse Elimination In order for your rodent control program to be effective (as well as efficient) on a long term basis, all four basic steps should be implemented. Inspection: There are ten signs that a professional should look for when conducting their initial (and follow-up) inspection: Droppings, tracks, gnaw marks, burrowing, runways, grease marks, urine stains, live or dead rodents, rodents sounds and rodent odors. A good inspection gives you a better idea of the size of the population and the routes taken by the rodents. As you will see in Population Reduction, you must intercept the rodents. Proper placements of baits, traps or live traps depend on your inspection! Sanitation: In order for a large population of rodents to flourish, there has to be an abundance of food and water, as well as easy access to a cozy nesting site. By removing or reducing the factors that make any pest population abundant, you remove and reduce the pest. This is the backbone of Integrated Pest Management! Sanitation does imply that you live or work in a pig pen. Proper storage of possible rodent food, removal of undesirable vegetation (grass, weeds) and taking care of rubbish, lumber piles or old equipment are just a few examples of good sanitation practices. Homeowners must also realize that pet foods and wild bird feed are all tasty meals for rodents. Exclusion: Controlling rats and mice by making it impossible for them to enter structures is the best way to eliminate and control indoor populations. Although this is not always feasible, exclusion should not be ignored. It is not always possible to do extensive rodent proofing, but in many cases it can be accomplished with minimum effort. A building can be rodent proofed by eliminating all openings larger than 1/2 inch for rats and 1/4 for mice. Even after this is done, rodents can slip through open doors and windows, gain access along plumbing and other utility lines or (especially in the case of mice) be transported indoors with any merchandise. Exclusion also includes repairing doors and windows that do not operate properly or shut securely. Do not forget to inspect and repair air vents that may not be in sound working order. Population Reduction: To quickly reduce the population of mice, traps and/or baits are used. In some situations, the use of toxic baits are not safe, legal or desired because of possible odors. When dealing with mice, we prefer a combination of traps and baits if possible. The Multi-Catch Mouse Trap is a live trap for mice that can safely be used in areas where mouse baits are not appropriate. Consider your building, children, pets, ability to deal with possible odors and dangers to none target animals when choosing products to eliminate your mouse problem.
There are four basic steps when eliminating a rat population:
In order for your rodent control program to be effective (as well as efficient) on a long term basis, all four basic steps should be implemented. Inspection: There are ten signs that a professional should look for when conducting their initial (and follow-up) inspection: Droppings, tracks, gnaw marks, burrowing, runways, grease marks, urine stains, live or dead rodents, rodents sounds and rodent odors. A good inspection will give you a better idea of the size of the population and the routes taken by the rodents. As you will see in Population Reduction, you must intercept the rodents. Proper placements of baits, traps or live traps depend on your inspection! Sanitation: In order for a large population of rodents to flourish, there has to be an abundance of food and water, as well as easy access to a cozy nesting site. By removing or reducing the factors that make any pest population abundant, you remove and reduce the pest. This is the backbone of Integrated Pest Management! Sanitation does imply that you live or work in a pig pen. Proper storage of possible rodent food, removal of undesirable vegetation (grass, weeds) and taking care of rubbish, lumber piles or old equipment are just a few examples of good sanitation practices. Homeowners must also realize that pet foods and wild bird feed are all tasty meals for rodents. If rats have easy access to an abundance of dog food (especially at night when feeding is heaviest), they are less likely to be attracted to your rodenticides or baited traps. Exclusion: Controlling rats and mice by making it impossible for them to enter structures is the best way to eliminate and control indoor populations. Although this is not always feasible, exclusion should not be ignored. It is not always possible to do extensive rodent proofing, but in many cases it can be accomplished with minimum effort. A building can be rodent proofed by eliminating all openings larger than 1/2 inch for rats and 1/4 for mice. Even after this is done, rodents can slip through open doors and windows, gain access along plumbing and other utility lines or (especially in the case of mice) be transported indoors with any merchandise. Exclusion also includes repairing doors and windows that do not operate properly or shut securely. Do not forget to inspect and repair air vents that may not be in sound working order. Population Reduction: To quickly reduce the population of rats, traps and/or baits are used. In some situations, the use of toxic baits are not safe, legal or desired because of possible odors. When dealing with rats, we prefer a combination of traps and baits. Consider your building, children, pets, ability to deal with possible odors and dangers to none target animals when choosing products to eliminate your rat problem. Non-chemical control with the use of traps Chemical control with the use of rodenticides BAITING FOR MICE BAITING FOR RATS TIPS FOR BAITING SNAP TRAPS Rat and Mouse Bait Stations, Rodent Baiters Rat Zapper 2000 Rat and Mouse Trap Multi Catch Mouse Trap Tin
Cat Repeating Mouse Trap - (Tin Cat picture) This low profile (10 1/2"
long x 6 1/2" wide x 2 1/2" high) trap is placed lengthwise against walls
where mice frequent. Large entrance holes allow mice to enter but keeps them from
escaping. The Tin Cat requires no winding and no baits, features a see-through lid
for easy inspection, and is a favorite for homeowners, food plants, grocery stores and
warehouses. Will hold up to 30 mice Victor Mouse Snap Trap - We carry only the expanded trigger, professional model snap trap. The expanded trigger not only gives better sensitivity for those "picky eaters," it allows you a greater range of baits. More surface area means you now have the ability to "smear" baits (such as peanut butter or chocolate) in thin layers for more positive catches. With the expanded trigger, it is not always necessary to bait the trap. Traps placed across runways are tripped simply when the rodents walk across the pedals. But to save time, use bait! Victor Rat Snap Trap - Same as above (mouse trap), but large enough to kill rats. Always use snap traps in sets of two or three per placement. This will insure that the rat hits the "business end" of one of your traps. If a rat hits the wrong end of your snap trap (setting off the mechanism without harming the rodent) you will be left with an empty trap and a wiser rodent who will probably become "trap shy." Mouse
Master - Mouse Master Picture
This repeating mouse trap has a clear lid for easy inspection and a wind-up mechanism
which flips the mice into an escape proof box. An important tool in mouse control
for many years, the Mouse Master and Catch All repeating wind-up traps can hold many mice with
one setting. The mice can be released safely in the wild or disposed of by immersing
in water before emptying the trap. Humane Live Trap : : Rat
and chipmunk trap. 18x5x5 with 3 LB shipping weight. This humane live trap allows
you to capture rats, chipmunks or
flying squirrels without the use of rodenticides.
The absence of toxic baits not only creates a safer environment for children and pets, it
also means you have no odors from hidden carcasses! GLUE TRAPSIn many circumstances, glue traps (or glue boards, as they are called in the pest control industry) are employed in rodent elimination and maintenance. In areas where food is commercially prepared, the use of rodenticides is unsafe and against federal law. Glue traps are safe to use in homes, apartments, restaurants, hospitals, pet shops, day care centers, nursing homes and food preparation areas. Many pest control operators prefer using glue traps in conjunction with their rodenticide program. This captures many of the rodent pests before they die, giving a better chance of finding more carcasses before they begin to decompose and create odors. Place traps in path of rodents, intercepting them between their nesting site and food source. Traps featured here are made by Catchmaster, an industry leader that insists on using quality glue that is not affected by the elements as are cheap glue products. Mouse Glue
Boards: To use, simply peel
paper from trap to expose glue, then place trap in areas frequented by mice, lizards, or
any small pests you wish to capture. Rat Glue Trays:
Non-poisonous traps for capturing rats, mice and reptiles. Simply place glue
boards in areas where pests are known to frequent. The use of glue traps enables you
to control pests without toxic baits and poisons that can harm pets and
children MaxCatch: (Catchmaster 24GRB) This giant (18" x 10 1/2") rat glue board is excellent for capturing rats, mice, snakes and other reptiles. The flexible form of the MaxCatch Glue Trap makes it ideal for situations requiring an irregular shaped glue board. Can be folded and can also be cut to fit difficult areas. Order Maxcatch Giant Glue Trap
RODENTICIDE CATALOG Rat and Mouse Bait Stations, Rodent Baiters Fastrac Bait Packs (replaces Vengeance) Talon Weather Blok Final Rodenticide Pellet Place Packs Talon
Weather Blok - (a.i. Brodifacoum) For control of Norway rats, Roof rats and House mice in
and around sewers, homes, industrial, commercial, agricultural and public buildings.
Rodents may consume a lethal dose in one feeding with first dead rodents appearing four or
five days after treatment begins. Weather Blok may also be used in and around
transport vehicles (ships, trains, aircraft) and related port or terminal buildings.
Must be placed in tamper-proof boxes or in locations not accessible to
children, pets, domestic animals or wildlife such as burrows which are then closed. Fastrac Bait Packs
- (Same as Vengeance) (a.i.
Bromethalin) Kills Norway Rats, Roof
Rats, and House Mice. Rats and Mice consume a lethal dose in a single
feeding with dead rodents appearing two to three days after treatment begins.
Rodents cease feeding after consuming a lethal dose in a single night's feeding.
Fastrac bait is effective against anticoagulant-resistant rats and mice. BAITING FOR MICE: Never Use Rodenticide Bait Inside Your House If You Have A Young Child Or Dog That Could Possibly Come In Contact With Your Bait! Another useful tip is to make use of tamper resistant rodent bait stations. Bait stations provide attractive feeding locations for mice and encourages more mice to consume more bait in a shorter time period. They also keep your bait dry and free of dust and debris. Place your baits in areas where there is evidence of mouse activity. Remember that your mice live in a multi-dimensional world. They could be above their food source (attics, cabinets, etc.) or below (basements, crawl spaces, lower floors of a building, sub floors, etc.) Mice are not attracted to old, insect infested or moldy bait. Inspect often and replace or move undesirable baits Making many placements (each containing small amounts) is an important key to successfully baiting mice. Never use rat baits inside your home if you have a young child or pet that could possibly come in contact with your bait!
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